Live plants and what's REALLY needed to make it go?

[Whiplash4ever]

Sorry, I know there's a Live Plant Discussion thread, but I didn't see this as a question, so here we go...

I read where many people have Co2 and UV Sterilizers systems for the best results of keeping a healthy Eco-system. What do they actually do? How "Needed" are they in reality? What's considered a good system? Are they essential? How do the work? What do they do for the plants?

I found this on on Foster and Smith for 40 bucks, but there are others for a hell of a lot more. Not sure what the differences are since this one "claims" to be good for up to 125 gallons.

CO2 Reactor 500
Powerful vortex reaction chamber dissolves 99.5% of CO2

* Carbon dioxide reaction chamber includes an adjustable 65 gph flow pump
* Compact, submersible design includes necessary silicon tubing and check valve
* Easily connects to any CO2 regulator and carbon dioxide source for plant health

Powerful carbon dioxide reaction chamber dissolves 99.5% of CO2 for strong, lush aquarium plants. Features a 65 gph adjustable flow pump that creates a vortex inside the reaction chamber for total dissolution at up to 180 bubbles per minute. Includes check valve and three feet of silicon CO2 tubing. Easily connects to any CO2 regulator and source*. For planted aquariums up to 125 gallons. Measures 1-5/8" wide x 3-3/4" long x 2-1/4" high.

Includes: Check Valve and 3 ft of Silicon CO2 Tubing.

*NOTE: Requires a CO2 Regulator (sold separately) and CO2 Source (purchase locally).

Use Instructions
Aquarium plants need carbon dioxide to flourish and grow. In fact, this simple gas is an essential component of photosynthesis. However, water movement and filtration in most aquariums cause carbon dioxide to be eliminated through the water's surface. An absence of carbon dioxide can cause your aquarium plants to lose strength, color, or worse. Adding carbon dioxide to your aquarium system during daylight hours can help keep your aquarium plants healthy and strong - without any effect to your other aquarium inhabitants, provided you do not overload the system. This reactor features a vortex chamber that effectively dissolves 99.5% of carbon dioxide at rates up to 180 bubbles per minute.

Assembly Instructions

Rotate the Flow Valve on top of the Reactor to set the flow rate on the pump to the minimum level.
Immerse the Reactor in your aquarium and invert the system to permit the escape of any trapped air.
Using the Suction Cup provided, attach the Reactor to your aquarium's back wall or side.

NOTE: There is no depth requirement for the Reactor chamber, since the CO2 is fully dissolved inside the reaction chamber.
Connect the Check Valve to the Reactor Inline Tube.
Connect the Inline Tube to a CO2 Regulator and CO2 Source (both not included).

Maintenance Instructions
Periodically, algae may build up in the Reactor chamber. To clean the chamber, remove it from the pump housing by gently, but firmly, pulling each component away from the other. Rinse clean with aquarium-safe water. Reassemble.

Troubleshooting
Problem/Solution
Water is flowing up the CO2 inlet tube/Install the Check Valve inline before the Reactor
Reactor discharges a steady stream of large bubbles/Reduce Bubble Flow Rate; Clean Reactor
System works, but CO2 in aquarium is not rising/Check for excess CO2 loss in aquarium*
System works but my plants aren't doing better/CO2 is only one component of the process. Plants also need suitable lighting, substrate, and fertilization.

* CO2 loss: Turbulence at the water's surface causes CO2 to be lost from your aquarium into the atmosphere. Turbulence is caused by hang on filters, spray bar diffusers, air stones, bubble curtains, and other water aeration devices. If you are using an external filter, such as a canister filter, ensure the return/outlet is positioned far enough below the water's surface to prevent water surface turbulence.

Product Specifications
CO2 Reactor 500 is made of a powerful adjustable flow pump and precision reactor chamber with a high-impact plastic housing. Submersible design connects to any CO2 regulator and dissolves up to 180 bubbles per minute at 99.5% dissolution. Pump easily adjusts up to 65 gph. For planted aquariums up to 125 gallons. Measures 1-5/8" wide x 3-3/4" long x 2-1/4" high.

UV Sterilizers. Kmuda told me somewhere on one of these many threads that a Sterilizer is always a good idea?


I found this on on Foster and Smith for 145 bucks (on sale for 120 bucks), but there are others on there too. Not sure what the differences are.

Lifegard Aquatics AquaStep Pro Ultraviolet Sterilizer
Triples UV light exposure

* Triples UV exposure to control disease causing organisms
* Internal step ladder design exposes water to more UV light
* Dual installation options - use as a hang-on or inline UV sterilizer

Lifegard AquaticsDisease causing microorganisms don't stand a chance. Innovative ladder design slows flow rate to triple UV exposure time for a greater kill rate. Versatile inlet/outlet at top and bottom allows custom options for hang-on, below aquarium, or multiple unit installation. High quality UV bulb is made of hard quartz for maximum UV transmission and longer life. Features four pin connector for easy bulb replacement without shutting down system. Made of heavy duty thick wall ABS injection molded parts. EPA-registered. Includes UL-Listed high output electronic ballast for reliable and energy efficient performance.

Includes: (2) 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbows, waterfall output assembly, Thread Seal Tape, and (2) port plugs. Replacement sleeves and bulbs sold separately.

Features:

Internal Step Design: Directs water back and forth across UV light tripling the contact time through the unit.
Ease of Replacement: Unique 4 pin connector for easy bulb replacement without shutting down the system.
Clear View Port: Allows visible light (no UV) to pass through and indicate bulb is operating.
Adjustable Clamp: Spring loaded clamp creates a snug fit to any aquarium or reservoir tank.
UV Bulb: Highest quality, pure hard quartz material allows maximum UV transmission and longer bulb life.
Compression Coupling and Gasket: Creates watertight seal at quartz sleeve and around ballast cord.
Electronic Ballast: 10W, 15W, and 25W high output UL-Listed ballast.
Versatile: Inlet and outlet at top for hang-on and at bottom for below aquarium installations. Use inlet ports on each side to connect multiple units together for any size requirement.
Distribution Plate: Evenly distributes water into chamber.
Plugs: Plug off inlet ports not in use. Can be removed to drain or clean unit.
Free Standing Base: Holds AquaStep in place for installations below or beside aquarium.
Design: Innovative design creates more volume area for increased contact time. Flat side allows snug fit to any aquarium or reservoir tank.
High Capacity: More capacity than any other model of equal height due to shape of chamber and step design.
Waterfall: Increases oxygen level by spreading out a thin sheet of gently falling water.
Adjustment Screws: Keeps unit level when installed in hanging position on tank.
Injection Molded Construction: Heavy duty, thick wall ABS injection molded parts. Built to last.

Initial Setup:

Screw in the plugs on each side of the manifold. Make sure O-rings are seated properly. The bottom inlet ports will not be needed in this type of installation. Wrapping Teflon tape is recommended. (O-rings need periodic silicone lubrications.)
Wrap Teflon tape on the male threads of one 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow and the waterfall assembly. Wrap each fitting 5-7 times with Teflon tape. Only one 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow will be needed for this type of installation.
Screw in the 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow into top inlet port. NOTE: The inlet port is located in front of the UV light indicator.
Screw in the waterfall assembly into the outlet port located at the top of the AquaStep.
Slide the rubber gasket onto the hard quartz sleeve so that the edge of the sleeve is visible as shown below.
Slide the quartz sleeve into the AquaStep unit.
Screw on the quartz sleeve cap. Hand tighten only.
Take out the bulb and ballast from the box. Connect the bulb to the ballast. NOTE: there is only one way to connect the bulb to the ballast. The four pin connector on the bulb needs to match the four holes on the ballast end. DO NOT use excessive force or this may damage the parts.
Slide the bulb into the quartz sleeve through the quartz cap. Gently push the bulb all the way in.
Screw on the moisture resistant cap of the ballast connection onto the quartz sleeve cap. Hand tighten only.
Your AquaStep UV Sterilizer is ready for use.

Side or Back of the Aquarium Installation:

Install the AquaStep UV Sterilizer on the side or back of the aquarium by pushing the mounting bracket spring attachment located at the top with your thumb and hang the unit over the edge of the aquarium. It may be necessary to move the triangular portion of the waterfall assembly to one side so that the mounting bracket can be pushed far enough to clear the moulding on the top edge of the aquarium
Make sure the unit is completely level by adjusting the plastic screws located on each side at the bottom of the AquaStep.
Install the powerhead pump (not included with the unit) inside the aquarium in the desired location following the instructions of the pump manufacturer.
Attach one end of the 1/2" ID x 1-1/16" OD flexible tubing to the outlet side of the powerhead pump.
Attach the other end of the flexible tubing to the 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow located on the top inlet side of the AquaStep. In most cases, the flexible tubing will need to be cut to the proper length.

Beside the Aquarium Installation:

Place filter on base in desired location next to the aquarium. Make sure the unit is level on the base.
Screw in the plugs on each side of the bottom manifold. Make sure the plug O-rings are seated properly. The bottom inlet ports will not be needed in this type of installation.
Wrap Teflon tape on the male threads of the two 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow fittings provided. Wrap each fitting 5-7 times with the tape.
Screw one 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow fitting into top inlet port. Screw in the elbow so that the barb portion is pointing straight up vertically. Screw in the other elbow fitting into the outlet port located at the top of the unit and align the barb portion straight up vertically.
Install the powerhead pump (not included with unit) inside the aquarium in the desired location following the instructions of the pump manufacturer.
Attach one end 1/2" ID 1-1/16" OD flexible tubing on the outlet side of the powerhead pump.
Attach the other end of the flexible tubing in the 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow located at the top inlet side of the AquaStep. Cut the tubing to the proper length. Attach a hose clamp and tighten accordingly.
Attach the rest of the tubing to the 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow located at the top outlet side of the AquaStep. Attach a hose clamp and tighten accordingly.

Hang on Wet/Dry Filter Installation:

Carefully follow all steps in section A (Side or Back of the Aquarium).

Installation Underneath Aquarium with a Canister Filter:

Place AquaStep on base in desired location next to the canister filter. Position the AquaStep so that it can be plumbed on the outlet side of the canister filter.
Screw in the plugs on each side of the bottom manifold. Make sure the plug O-rings are seated properly. In most cases, the bottom inlet ports will not be needed in this type of installation.
Wrap Teflon tape on the male threads of the two 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow fittings provided. Wrap each fitting 5-7 times with tape.
Screw one 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow fitting into the top inlet port. Screw in the other elbow fitting into the outlet port located at the top of the unit.
Turn off the valve on the outlet side of the canister filter and completely drain the flexible tubing on the outlet side of the canister filter. In most cases, it will be necessary to remove the "U" or "J" tube from the back of the aquarium. Cut the flexible tubing on the outlet side of the canister filter and plumb in line a by-pass valve and "T" which will divert only a portion of the water from the canister filter and into the inlet port of the top manifold. Attach hose clamp and tighten accordingly.
Attach one end of the 1/2" ID x 1-1/16" OD flexible tubing to the 3/4" MPT x 1/2" barb elbow located at the top outlet side of the filter. Attach hose clamp and tighten accordingly.
Place the other end of the tubing up and over the side or back of the aquarium so that the water returns to the aquarium and agitates the surface to aerate the system. In some cases, flexible tubing can be attached to a rigid plastic "U" or "J" tube (not supplied in this unit) that hangs on the aquarium. Attach hose clamp to the rigid tube and tighten accordingly. We recommend using the CustomFlo Water System in place of the "U" or "J" tube for professional looking installations.
Adjust the by-pass valve to direct appropriate amount of water into the UV.

It's a lot to take in I know, but are these good systems or should I keep looking? Anyone else running one or both a Co2 and UV Sterilizer? Suggestions or recommendations appreciated.


Whip

_________________
Solitary trees, if they grow at all, grow strong.
- Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill

[Ted]

That's a very small piece of the CO2 puzzle. It depends on what route you wish to take. You can go high light/ high tech or you can go low light/ low tech. That's a very simplified break down.

For my 2.5 gallon very high light tank, I have quite a bit invested. Besides that tank and substrate and plants, I have the following equipment on it:

Lighting
Filter
CO2 Regulator
CO2 Tank
CO2 Diffuser (this is another version of what you listed)
CO2 Controller

And misc hose, check valve and drop checker.

My 30g is similarly set up but with a ridiculous T5HO/MH light a DIY diffuser/reactor (I recommend for larger tanks), a slightly different regularly and an Eheim 2026.

I don't use a uv sterilizer. I do fertilize using the "Estimative Index" method.

Planted tanks can be as expensive as reef tanks.

I've also been successful oiling spare light strips into a 15g tank and running DIY CO2 from a yeast/ sugar reactor. But on a large tank, it's just not feasible to do.

Hopefully Alaise will tell you how he does his lower tech but beautiful tanks.

[Bloodmourn]

I've used the UV sterilizer to prevent algae, and green water, from growing in a planted tank. You would want to reduce the competition for the plants in your tank. With that said, a faster flow rate for the UV sterilizer will suffice, such as those found in canister filters (5watt for under 300 gph, and 9 watt for over 300 gph). The other UV sterilizers you mentioned are more geared towards the fastest gph to kill micro-organisms in your tank.