Help, White film over the eye

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Help, White film over the eye

Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:49 pm

Hello, My larger Oscar is developing a white film over his eye. He is still fairly active and swimming around, he occasionally flips sideways as to rub his top fines on an ornament, but no white spots are apparent. What is it and how does one treat it? I currently have salt in the tank to the equation of 2 tablespoons per 5 gallons, and was treating with quick cure as he had scraped his head playing. that is almost all healed up.

Water Parameters are as follows:
T 80 degrees
A 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 10
pH 7.6

55 Gallon 2 Emporer 400 with secondary filters with Ammonia Chips
and 2 air pumps.

1 4 inch Oscar, 1 5 inch Oscar and a 3 inch Jack. 1 Brichardi. They are all getting along fine and yes, I know I need a bigger tank as I will be taking delivery of this in less than a month (150 Gallon). I have been doing 25% water changes every other day and adding salt to the replacement water to the same equation of 2 tablespoons per 5 gallons.

How do I treat this cloudy eye? This only seems to be apparent on the one fish and not the others, any suggestions?

I appreciate your assistance. Thanks.
Neil
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Postby Ironside » Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:54 pm

Could be a sign of stress. Both my Oscars developed a white film over one of their eyes when I first got them. After a few days the film peeled off and there have been no problems since.
The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.
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Postby carcar » Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:54 pm

when Oscar took a flying leap out of his tank, the eye on the side he landed on developed a white film, which got me a bit worried. I treated him with wardley's triple sulfa (as reccommended by my lfs) as he also had a few scratches from the glass and a sore fin.. and it went away in two days...

not sure if it would word for you or not.. but it's a suggestion!
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Postby matt1127 » Mon Mar 14, 2005 4:31 pm

Ironside wrote:Could be a sign of stress. Both my Oscars developed a white film over one of their eyes when I first got them. After a few days the film peeled off and there have been no problems since.



exacts same thing happend to me

BTW you should probably move one or two of your fish into your 60 gallon while your waiting for the 150G


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Postby texasreb » Mon Mar 14, 2005 4:38 pm

IMO, 2 tablespoons of salt per 5 gallons of water is a bit too brackish for this application. I would say that 1 tablespoon per 5 or even 10 gallons would be more than adequate.

Salt is actually an irritant. The reason it works as a healant is because the fish produces extra slimecoat(which promotes healing) to ward off the irritating effects of the salt. Your brichardi might be happy with that much salt, but the rest of them are suffering.

If I were you, I would forgo the salt on your next several water changes. That will help gradually bring the salinity back down.

Good luck to you and your fish.

reb
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Mon Mar 14, 2005 4:46 pm

I am sorry, I made a mistake. It is 1 Tablespoon per 5 Gallons (11 Tablespoons for the tank and 2-3 tablespoons on water changes 25-30% water changes every other day).
Neil
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Mon Mar 14, 2005 4:48 pm

So, the cloudy/film over the eye is just that the fish is stressed? To much salt? Not a bacterial or parasite problem?
Neil
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Postby Bryce » Mon Mar 14, 2005 6:43 pm

It indeed could be a film produced to protect the eye from an irritant, but it could be more.

Depending on the type of cloudiness it could be a symptom of a gram-negative bacterial infection. In addition, a fish infested with worms or flukes could have the eye become cloudy from the inside out.

If it is a gram-negative bacterial infection Maracyn II treated in a hospital tank or receptacle would fit the bill. For parasites the entire tank should be treated with a medication containing Praziquantel. Maracide or Coppersafe would work.

Given that only one fish is exhibiting this symptom, I would lean toward the bacterial infection.

Regards,

Bryce
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Mon Mar 14, 2005 6:49 pm

I did a few days ago treat the tank for parasites as I lost a red tail that look like it had flukes externally. I used Jungle Parasite. But only followed with quick cure for the last several days as to fight secondary infections.
Neil
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Mon Mar 14, 2005 6:55 pm

Bryce, you wouldn't treat the whole tank as I do not have a hospital tank available. All I have available to me is a 5 gallon bucket at the moment, any suggestions if I have to isolate him and treat only him, how about the other fish? Should I treat with Coppersafe as I have heard this mentioned before as good for parasites as profolactic treatment just in case? I love my Os and just want them to be healthy. I wish I had the bigger tank now and could just use the 55 for a hospital tank, but unfortunately, it finances did not work that way, so I did get it ordered finally, but delivery will not be for another month, so I am trying to work hard to maintain all of them in the 55 in the meantime. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,
Neil
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Postby Bryce » Mon Mar 14, 2005 7:21 pm

For parasites you do want to treat the entire tank.

For the gram-negative bacterial infection you certainly can treat the entire tank, but Maracyn II is VERY expensive and in a 55-gallon tank it can cost over 30.00 to treat.

The Maracyn II is a five-day treatment so it's not for a long period of time. You could even use an old cooler or storage bin to treat in. Just put a heater and a bubbler in with it and you should be fine for five days.

Regards,

Bryce
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Mon Mar 14, 2005 7:40 pm

Thank you for your help. I can do that...so, a buble strip and a heater is all that would be necessary in a big cooler?

Won't he miss the other fish? or try to jump out?
Neil
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Postby Bryce » Mon Mar 14, 2005 8:04 pm

Well Oscars do jump so it may be a good idea to cover the cooler when you aren't around.

He may miss the other fish but he'll get over it. :D
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:33 pm

Bryce and everyone else, thanks for the advice. I took your advice. I decided to treat the whole tank. Regardless of the cost, I wanted to make sure my fish were all going to be ok. Especially if I cannot tell if this is a bacterial infection of the one fish or a parasite problem. So, I have treated the tank with Coppersafe, Maracide and Maracyn II. The impression I got was Coppersafe was for Ich and other parasites and more for long treatment and Maracide was more for an immediate problem. One treats the water and one treats the fish, so I used both to be safe. I also went with the $30.00 treatment with Maracyn II. I would rather be safe than sorry and take care these problems as to have everything as stable as possible so when the new tank gets set up, They can all go in there home and hopefully enjoy it without bringing any diseases or infections. I appreciate your advice and your help. Neil
Neil
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Postby Bryce » Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:54 pm

A Couple-O-Things:

DO NOT use Maracide and Coppersafe at the same time. Not a good idea.

Also, if it were me, although the manufacturer states that Maracide and Maracyn II can be used concurrently I would still wait until the treatment of Maracide is complete prior to treating with the Maracyn II.

One last note; make sure that you increase the surface agitation in your tank while medicating. Medications can deplete oxygen content of the water and the additional agitation will help with gas exchange.

Regards,

Bryce
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Tue Mar 15, 2005 1:45 am

Bryce, I have an air pump with an airstone and an 18 inch bubble wand along with two Emp 400 on high...is that adequate oxygenation? I had read the directions and I thought you could use it concurrently. I am concerned for my fish as my Jack looks as if he has the film over one eye starting also...so, I do not know if I have Ich and a bacterial issue or both...It is hard to determine at this point. I had used Jungle Parasite two weeks ago as directed and Quick Cure for profalactic treatment. I also thought that with the salt and the temp at 80 that Ich is not likely....This is so confusing and frustrating and I know it will be easier in the larger tank, but I do frequent water changes...usually every other day (actually when nitrates reach 20)...but I just want my babies to be healthy....
Neil
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Tue Mar 15, 2005 1:51 am

oh yeah, one more stupid question...do I feed the fish when they are being medicated or do you halt the feedings while medicating? They won't starve? I know medications cause reduced O2, increase waste from the fish and you are not supposed to do water changes as this dilutes the medications, so is that why one does not feed the fish while medicating as not to provide more waste and a chance to increase NH3?
Neil
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Postby Bryce » Tue Mar 15, 2005 2:01 am

I am relatively certain that ich is not the problem. I wouldn’t concern myself with that.

Put simply, the reason some people suggest not feeding during medication is that the act of digestion uses up energy that the fish could be using to fight illness. If the fish are a bit older not eating for five days won’t hurt them. If you have already treated for parasites I would just do the follow up with Maracyn II. Do a double dose on the first day to jump start things. Don't do a water change until treatment is complete.

The surface agitation you describe is adequate.

Regards,

Bryce
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Postby badbuddhaboy69 » Tue Mar 15, 2005 2:10 am

Thanks for everything Bryce. Your help was greatly appreciated and very helpful. My fish appreciate it also.
Neil
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Postby jc63_ » Tue Mar 15, 2005 11:52 am

If you have any Activated Carbon in your filtration, you may want to remove that, I understand that it can remove the medication from the water.

JC
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