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TOPIC: Recovering Oscar

Recovering Oscar 1 month 3 weeks ago #70833

  • Lori919
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Hello,

I recently rescued my Oscar from my brother. He was in severe nitrate poisoning and basically dead. I did a 90 percent water change in his 40 gallon tank ( he's the only fish there). He seemed better but developed an ick infection. I treated him with super ick cure and today I do his 25% water change. He seems to be doing better but stays only to one side of his tank. Doesn't move much but at least he's at the top now instead of the bottom. I guess my question is, what does ick look like when it's healing? Because right now he looks like he has white blobs of slime on him.

Thanks
Lori
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 3 weeks ago #70834

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I'm not sure I would describe ich as "white blobs of slime". Your description makes me wonder if your Oscar is experiencing a malady other than ich? Ich looks like grains of salt or sugar attached to your fish. A picture would be helpful in diagnosing your fish's problem.

In case it's ich.....gradually raise your tank to 86*F (maybe 1* every hour or so). Ich can't live at that temperature. Maintain the 86*F temperature for 10-14 days in order to kill all of the ich - even if your fish no longer has spots on it.

If it's a bad case, you could also dose the tank with rock salt or aquarium salt. If you use salt, dose at 3Tbs / 5 gallons of water. Continue to use salt until 3 days after you see the last spot or at the end of the 10-14 day 86*F heat treatment.

If you have multiple tanks that share the same water change equipment, I'd not perform any water changes on the tank with ich to ensure no ich spores get transferred from one tank to another via the shared water change equipment. I bought a manual siphon for this exact purpose when I realized a fish I brought home had a light case of ich.

If your fish's malady is ich, and you use salt to treat it, be sure to add back any removed salt if you do a water change. For example, if you dose like I suggest, you'll have 24Tbs of salt in your aquarium. If you do a 50% water change, you'll have removed 12Tbs of salt and will need to add it back. At the end of the treatment, be sure to do a two or three, back-to-back-to-back, 80+% water changes to get the salt out your aquarium.

I've had to treat ich three times....I used both 86*F heat & salt the first time. I used only 86*F heat the other two times.
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 2 weeks ago #70893

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Sorry I have not had a chance to reply. He seemed to be doing better at one point but now we are back in the bottom of the tank again. I treated him for ick with API super ick cure, changed his water.. and somehow that treatment looked like his slime coat came off in chunks. I'm attaching pictures...


After this cleared he was happy and eating, but now he looks like he has no slime coat on him, and perhaps even lost some scales? I'm noticing his eyes are cloudy which was not there before.




I don't know what to treat him with. I added half a dose to his tank of stress coat, but I can't tell if his infection is bacterial or fungal. I read up something about cotton wool disease but I can't tell if that's what the slime coming off him was or just the ick curing itself. I have no experience with fish.

I'm doing 25% water changes once a week, he came from severe nitrate poisoning. His water has been stable for the last 2.5 weeks. I test it 2-3 times a week. 40 gallon tank and he is the only fish, and tank temperature is 75.

Any advice is appreciated ❤️.....

-Lori
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 2 weeks ago #70894

  • Ernie14
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Could you share your water results with us? Particularly ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings? I would expect you are dealing with some water quality issues.
Do you use a water conditioner, like Prime, during water changes?
150 gallon 2x Tiger Oscars
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 2 weeks ago #70895

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Yes I do use prime for his water conditioning/chlorine ammonia neutralization. pH is around 7.6 and nitrates are in the 0 ppm color range (yellow), the ammonia is at 0 ppm range as well when I tested it yesterday, I don't have a nitrite kit (thinking of just buying the full range kit). One thing I did observe is his water is starting to get cloudy, and this was before I added the stress coat. Last water change was yesterday and I did 10 gallons and topped off with 2 more.

Filter is the Terra ex70 and I changed the filters last Tuesday.

Thanks,

Lori

Filter is
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 2 weeks ago #70896

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Looks like your filter is uncycled, you should have a nitrate reading. Are you using a liquid test kit?
150 gallon 2x Tiger Oscars
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 2 weeks ago #70897

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I didn't think about that :/ I should have changed only one cartridge .. but the ones the tank had had been in there for months with an old catfish my brother had.. the oscar fish had been in the tank with the catfish (both large) then the catfish was taken out and oscar was left in the tank alone. My brother didn't do a proper water change and the oscar was dying.. I did a 90 % water change and continued to do water changes until the water was stable. I felt after a few weeks and an ick treatment it was time to change the filters and now I'm dealing with the cloudiness. However, my concern is his eyes look like cloudy too, like they have a little film on them and he's not eating. I can test the nitrates again but as of yesterday it was fine. Yes I'm using the API liquid water kit . Thank you so much for your help! :)
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 2 weeks ago #70898

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Water cloudiness is also a sign your tank has lost it's cycle or is not cycled, sometimes this is called new tank syndrome.
By replacing your filters you have probably removed the beneficial bacteria needed to keep your tank healthy.
Would suggest daily 25% water changes using Prime and keep close eye on your water parameters. If you start getting ammonia readings this is indicating you have started a cycle.
Your poor little Oscar has been through a lot and I think it is going to be a battle to get him healthy again, keep us informed.
150 gallon 2x Tiger Oscars
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 2 weeks ago #70899

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Nitrobacter bacteria basicly can ist on many surfaces as long this surface is propper circulated.
It also can happen that in canisters with different trays this colonys of bacteria are more concentrated on one as in another spot.
For example

You start your canister filter fresh from the ground. After around 1.5 to 2 months you should be fully cycled. Now you most likley only clean like 99% of people any couple of weeks or as the flow starts to become visable weaker your mechanical media what is the blue sponge and the white poly cotton.
With the flow and Gph becoming less the allready low oxigen in canister filters becoming dangerous low and it could happen the bacterias die off.
After several weeks you will still have a couple left inside the tank and inside the mech media but for big cichlids it's mostly not enough so that you get into this new tank Syndrom.

This has to do with the overall System a can filter works. Even the Industry claims it, there are very less maybe 3 to 5 canister filters out there that are propper sized for very big fish.
They are all good for your 60 to 100g tank with regular aquarium fish stock from guppys, Angels, Corys and so on but not for 3 pound Oscars. For this people like kmuda the owner of this side recommend this crazy filter maintaince rutines with replacing constantly mech and bio media after several weeks what to be honest most people don't do.

A sump with lets say 4 or 5 Chambers what is basicly a canister that works horizontal and not like an canister vertical has for this some major advantages.

+ It's an open System, so it's more easy to work on and you don't shut down the whole filtration to clean it. But the main goal is it's an System with open surface what allows it to exchange gas propperly. You have much better oxigen values.

Also the whole System is build so that the Chambers are seperated from each other. Even chamber one and two would die off because it's fully gunked chamber three will kick in.
This gunk has a habbit to sedimentize, like snowballs, it gets bigger and bigger and stay n the bottom if it becomes heavy enough.
In an canister where the water gets inside the can in the first tray than go down to the bottom and flows up this is fatal. If your first bio tray cloggs sedimentation falls down and gets in the middle tray and so on tIll it's so clogged that the filter is basicly not working any more. This can't happen this dramaticly in a vertical filter System.
We need to stop talking about the people as if they were the crown of creation.
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Recovering Oscar 1 month 2 weeks ago #70908

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Well.. water parameters are still good. 0 ppm ammonia, and 0 ppm nitrates. However his swimming is not balanced... I'm fearing a swim bladder infection. Also he's developing patches:






Im choosing to treat with melafix for a week like it says on the bottle and pray this heals him. I feel like I'm fighting a loosing battle with him. After his severe nitrate poisoning it's like he's coming down with one thing after another...

Lori
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